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UK based
Prices for UK customers are shown inc 20% VAT
Other countries, inc EU, prices shown are ex VAT.
Relatively easy to install. For this upgrade, you need to drill out the lamps, saw a hole in the metal bottom and glue the chassis to the front and rear parts.
The assembled motorised chassis specs:
- 8 mm disc wheels
- RP25
- Wheelbase 21.5 mm
- 0716 coreless motor, 11,000 rpm
- Slowest scale speed: to follow
- Max scale speed at 12V: to follow
COMING IN MARCH 2025
Take apart - Disassembly
The housing is held in place with the main light at the front and rear. And some glue. With a nail or sharp centre punch, press a starting point in the centre of the lamp. The lamp needs to be destroyed to open the model. Use a drill in a hand vice or if your bench drill has a very, very low speed setting, that would be easier.
First, use a small and sharp drill. Here I am using a 1 mm milling bit.
Then I used a 1.4 mm milling bit. It took the remains of the lamp completely out. The plastic of the lamp itself is 1.6 mm.
Remove the side skirts and the V shaped thingies.
Then you can remove the two screws. These screws are holding the seating in place, but you do not need to fit them back at the end.
There will be four places where glue spread from the side skirts between the side panels of the housing and the chassis, indicated with four arrows. You can just pull with your nail to release it or when it’s difficult, use a sharp knife to loosen the side.
On this picture the side skirts are still fitted. But you can carefully break them off (wiggle, bend) if you hadn’t done so in the previous step.
Now you should be able to lift the housing off. If it is still stuck at the fronts, use a sharp knife under the front panel, just above the buffer bar. Some glue from fitting the lamp might have dripped down.
Because you removed the screws, the seats can be lifted out. It is fixed in place with three plugs under the seating part. If needed, use a knife to wiggle it loose.
Saw the metal frame at two points with a fine saw. Be careful not to push on the entrance gates and poles.
Ignore the point where I am sawing on the photo at the right. Follow the red dotted lines above as guidance. This photo is just an example of how to cut the chassis. This can be done with a fine piercing or blade saw.
Below the parts you are left with.
Remove the wheels from the chassis, so you can have a better grip when you glue the chassis to the balconies. Do one at the time. Use fast drying epoxy glue, like Araldite 90 (orange).
The chassis is so designed, you should get a perfect fit and the balcony part will be perfectly in line with the chassis.
When you’re done with one balcony, do the second one. If you are using Araldite 90, you can continue after about 4 minutes.
Pictured is the prototype of the chassis, so the one you purchase from the Tramfabriek will look a little bit different (i.e. better!).
The old supports for the wheels have to be cut up the the bottom of the seatings. Then cut out/file a piece to make space for the motor saddle and wire connections.
This is how the result should be.
Now take the tram for a test run.
Nicest is if you populate your tram with some people. Here I used Preiser figures from article 14404.
When pressing the seating back in place, pay special attention to the motor wires on both sides. Careful not be trap them.
One optional thing can be done now. Remember we destroyed the lamp? If you’re brave, you can paint the end of the lamp brass. Then you can replace the lamp with a 1.5 to 1.6 mm transparent rod. File one end nice flat and feed this end from the inside through the lamp hole. You might want to test the fitting first from the outside and ream the hole in case needed. Use sharp cutters, like a rail cutter from Xuron, the cut it flush at the backside from the front panel.
Place the seats in the tram.
Now the housing can be placed back. The two panels on each side of the seats are slotting into the roof (bottom arrow). These also hold the housing in place without the need for the lamps.
The top arrow alerts you to remember to put the poles in the hole, when closing the model.
H0 users: if you are installing an H0 Allrounder, you have to file the inside of the side skirts a bit in order to make the wheels fit inside the skirts. I’ve not done this myself, but the skirts are plastic, so it can’t be very difficult. You don’t have to do the whole thing, just where the wheels are. You don’t want to file the ends, as then the ploughs at the ends won’t fit anymore.
Glue the skirt assembly back in place with superglue at the four corners where it was glued before. Of course it is clever to figure out how the were positioned before, so they fit nicely in the gaps that they left.
Glue the skirt assembly back in place with superglue at the four corners where it was glued before. Of course it is clever to figure out how the were positioned before, so they fit nicely in the gaps that they left.
It’s done!
