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There are several different versions of the souvenir model. Newer ones have a plastic bottom, older ones a metal bottom. These instructions are suitable for all models (but not the Atlas version!).
The assembled motorised chassis specs:
- 8 mm disc wheels
- RP25
- Wheelbase 23 mm
- 0716 coreless motor, 11,000 rpm
- 1/87 Scale speed at 3V: 13 KMH = 8MPH
- 1/87 Scale speed at 12V: 67 KMH = 41.6 MPH
Parts supplied with this motorised chassis:
2x flat screw M2 L4
2x insert M2 L3 OD3
2x self tapping screws M2 L6
Model can purchased from:
Dinnages Publishing (UK)
https://www.transportpostcards.co.uk/home/diecast-models/lisbon-model-tram/
Take apart - Disassembly
Remove the two screws. They are holding the housing and roof in place. You do not need these screws anymore.
Take the wheels out if you have a metal bottom frame, or leave the wheels in place if you have a plastic bottom frame. With a coping saw, saw a hole as pictured in the frame. You just saw around the axle boxes, use them as a guide.
Take the two brass inserts that come with the motor upgrade. The inserts are shouldered. Put a bit of superglue in the one of the holes and press one insert in place. Make sure it sits straight. Then do the same with the other. The two flat screws (M2 L4), also supplied, are fitted from through the bottom and hold the bottom part and the seating part together.
Samples of the screws supplied. Two of each come with the kit.
Screw the two parts together. Use the bottom as a guide to cut the same hole in the seating part. But look at the seating side to make sure that you cut nicely along the one person seats (and not partly through them). On the other side, the two person seats, you have to cut right through them. If you do this nice and straight, no one will ever see that you’ve been cutting in the seats.
The Tramfabriek motorised chassis has two different end. The motor will fit only one way. Use the two M2 L6 self tapping screws to fit the drive to the bottom plate. But for the screw hole at the right, you need to create the hole (see next step).
To create the hole for the self tapping screw: Lay the chassis in the chassis, screw in the one side that already has a hole in the bottom plate. With a sharp centre punch, mark the hole. Take the chassis out and drill a 1.8 mm hole with a hand drill, or with a bench drill at very low speed (so the plastic doesn’t melt). Then you can fit the chassis with both screws.
Cut the lugs that were previously holding the long screws. The roof will now be glued on top of the casing. I’ve added a Train-O-Matic Shine Micro light bar with 4 capacitors. The standard supplied two will do, but as there was the space for it without being visible, I’ve added two more.
When the roof has been glued on the body, leave it to rest for 24 hours if you used super glue. If you close the model immediately, the windows will fog up. When it’s ready to assemble, just press the roof/housing assembly on the bottom part.
That’s it. Unless you want to go digital, then read on.
Populate your model with Preiser set 14440.
DCC fitting
If you want to fit DCC, front light(s) and/or interior lights, this is the time to work on that.
As you can see, a very thin decoder is fitted under the seating. This is a ZIMO MN160 decoder. On the other side is a Zimo STACO4 stayalive.
2 wires to interior light
2 wires to front light, connect to LED with 1K resistor. Pay attention to correct polarity.
ZIMO MN160
ZIMO STACO4
ZIMO MN160
The supercaps of the stayalive fit between the wheels.
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